Isle of Skye Circumnavigation 260km

So we had a week off work ....where shall we go ... how about the Isle of Skye!?

One of our favourite places for mountaineering, but somewhere we have not yet explored through sea kayak .... and it did not dissapoint!! 6 and a bit days of paddling 260km of epic scottish coastline with varied conditions ... it was fantastic!

Day 1

Having driven up to Skye the evening before we were ready to paddle, rearing to go, early that morning. As strong northerly winds were forecasted to come, we decided to start at the town Uig fairly north on the Island. We launched our boats at 9.30am from Uig harbour and started to paddle north up the coast into light northerly winds. A few km before reaching the top of the Island, the winds picked up ... so we sped up finally reaching the top headland, Rubha hunish. With a fairly strong northerly wind from an incoming low pressure, the seas had started to become fairly choppy keeping us entertained. James needed to get out his boat to sort a few things out, and did this on a sheltered part of a rocky outcrop. However, unluckily a set of waves unexpectadly came in, dragging his boat off the rocks!! Quick to react Fi saw this coming, and already had her sling and crabs in her mouth, charged towards the

boat, and rescued it before the waves had it's way with the boat and the rocks! Lesson learnt!

With a force 4 following northerly wind, and 3m swell, we started making great distance heading South down the coastline, entertaining ourselves with some interesting rockhopping through features.

Stopping for a quick food break on Staffin Island, we realized temperatures were a lot colder this week than they had been for the last few weeks, the weathers had started to change! Shivering in our shorts we quckly got back into our boats. Continuing South, we found a small bay to stop and camp at. Surfing small 3 footer waves into the pebbly beach we landed, and immediately it started to rain!! Something that would happen a lot that week! Setting up camp quickly and efficiently, we managed to keep everthing dry! hurrah!

Day 2

The first proper low pressure of summer had hit overnight with strong winds and rain, rain and rain! Waking up, the tent ground sheet was a little wet, i grumbled that our new tent wasn't that good. However, as I got out the tent I realized it had rained so much we were practically camping on a pond!!! Tents not that bad i admitted!! It was still raining heavily, and

a brown churning waterfall was flying down the rocks near us into the sea! With gale force 8 winds passing overnight, the sea state had changed to very rough ... exciting! The forecast today was for force 3 northerly winds with rough seas. Perfect!!

Dismantling camp quickly, we were ready to launch by 9.30. The low pressure had bought in some bigger surf to the bay we were in, making an exciting start to the day. James timed his launch well and paddled striaght out past the back out to sea. Me on the other hand ..... didn't so it so gracefully! Just as a launched a dumping wave took me by by suprise and hit me into a rock! ending up sideways

and stuck for a bit. Soon correcting myself, getting my boat straight, I charged through a few breaking waves and made it out to the back, where I was met with James laughing and a big exciting swell! The headland had waves breaking heavily around it, so we paddled out to sea

a little further to give it a wide berth, charging up the big waves, and flying down the other side, both grinning form ear to ear, this is one of the many reasons we love sea kayaking!! Starting to head south, we had fantastic fun surfing the waves down the coast! Round some of the headlands, the seas got very interesting and we got as close as we dared to the rocky coastal features with some intense rock hopping!

Not paying too much attention, in heads down paddling mode, we then passed through a gap between Holm Island and the land. If we had looked at the map, we would have realized there was a reef here! However we didn't. As we were passing, my boat rose a fair few meters up and down as a large unbroken wave passed undr me and then broke a few meters ahead! Suddenly looking over my shoulder, a house sized wave was coming at me!!! UH OH!! pointing my boat diagonally away, I charged hard full speed ahead, hoping to miss the breaking peak... However I didn't! The wave just broke on me ... sent me into it's inner washing washine. Holding on tight it eventually released me and I rolled up. Looking ahead, I couldn't see James ..... knowing he must have been hit by the same wave I paddled to a safe zone out of the reef area and found him looking just as soggy (and hatless!) paddling out towards me. Laughing at our stupidness, and exchanging washing machine stories we learnt our lesson to keep our eyes open a little more! Continung our journey, we then made a diagonall crossing to Rasaay Island, where we stopped at the harbour for an hours break. We popped our heads into Rasaay House Outdoor Center, an outdoor center we were both interested in working for that we had seen job adverts for. After talking to the instructorial

manager for a bit, we came away with new job prospects for a bit of work at the end of this season and also a job for next year! WHOOP!! After this, we paddle further South, and found a nice camping spot on the west side of Scalplay.

Day 3

Waking up to more rain 'whoop!' and westerly winds we got on the water and headed for broadford where we resupplyed our food. Flying all the way to Skye

Bridge with westerly winds behind us, we continued all the way to Kyle Rhea, where we then had to battle head on into these strong westerlies. We decided to set up camp earlier today as we wern't making reat distance with the winds. We found a shingly beach and got all our kit drying that had become wet in the last 2 days heavy rain. A relaxing late aftenoon was had untill the winds died completely

and the midgey's went CRAZY!!! the worst midges i have ever seen in my life! Hiding in the tent, we were convinced it was raining outside, however it was actually the sound of a thick swarm of midgeys bouncing all round the outer tent! Needing the loo, I made the terrible terrible mistake of opening the tent door to a thick swarm of them! This was a bad idea!!!! Anyway when I eventually got back in the tent we spent 20 minutes playing kill the midgeys and vowed not to open the tent door again that night!!

Day 4

Waking up early to make up for the distance we lost yesyerday we were packing our boats at

7.00 in the horrendus midgey swarm! Putting one item in a dry bag in a hatch, we then had to run around the beach for a couple of minutes getting the midgeys away, before putting another dry bag away! The insane amount of midgey made packing our boats in this method take double the time!! As soon as we got on the water, we were midgey free and it was fantastic! We had calm winds and seas today and made distance paddling west. We had

some fantastic views of the knoydart area. A few heavy rain showers were refreshing, cleaning us of salt! We paddled hard today and made good distance, finishing with a 8km crossing, where we camped at a sheltered cove by Prince Charles Cave. We learnt from our previous midgey encounters, and immediately got a fire set up, keeping them away nicely!! An enjoyable evening chilling by the fire sipping hot choclate with great views was had.

Day 5

Another day of flat calm seas! great for making distance, but we do

both prefer the excitement of rough seas. We paddled through the soay sound, with seals everywhere and continued to cross Lock Brittle. Continuing northwest up the coast the scenery was epic and breathtaking! An ominuous mist seemed to be covering the entire Isle of Skye, seeping slowly down the cliffs. Halfway, we stopped to refill our water supply at a big waterfall, the clearest water we've drank all trip! Having a refreshing ice cold shower in the waterfall the sun came out! Jumping back in our boats with this new energy we continued paddling up to the far headland, where we made a small crossing to Wiay Island, finding a small cove to land in and camp at.

Day 6

Westerly winds had been blowing that night, bringing in a few waves to our cove. Launching through them was easy and we were soon on our way crossing to the striking Macloads with some south westerly cross winds. Passing these, the cliffs got bigger and bigger and the scenery more and more spectacular with sea caves, arches and waterfalls the enture way along. On reaching Dunvegan Head, the strong force 4-5 south westerly winds were now behind us, and made the 6.5km crossing easy peasy! Surfing wave the entire way, it didn't take us long at all to reach land. Stopping at a tiny shingly beach to fill up water from yet another epic waterfall, we

decided this would be one of the best places to camp in the world ,,, so we stopped for te day and set up camp. Refreshing showers were taken in the freezing cold waterfall and we felt good. Staying up a bit later and enjoying the sunset views out to sea we eventually slept really well, despite the large rocks beneath us, we must be getting tired!

Day 7

With increasing south easterly winds forecast (the opposite of what we need!) we got up early to beat the worst of them today. Quickly covering the 6km north to Waternish Point, we then started the south esterly crossing to the Ascrib Islands. We had light force 2 headwinds and made this crossing in good time. Exploring through the ascrib Isles we could hear seals everywhere! Despite hazy conditions, breaks in the weather allowed us to finally see Uig, our starting and finishing point! Feeling the excitement, (and imaging the large amount of fish and chips we were about to eat) powered us off to make the final 10km crossing to finish.

Soon after we had left the Ascrib Isles the Southeast headwinds picked up to a constant force 4 gusting stronger with waves breaking in our faces! Not ideal, and not the nicest way to finish,.. but o well, we just paddled a littlle harder! It did cross my mind, that these winds would be perfect to send us flying to the outer hebrides where we could have another exciting week or two adventuring.... but reality is we have to go back to work, as we need to earn every penny for new zealand!

Eventually, we arrived at the seweed covered harbour where we started 6 and a half days ago whoohoo!

And guess what....... the moment we got there it started raining loads!!! We could have predicted this, happend every time!

Finishing with a celebratory large portion of haggis and chips the adventure was done!

It was fantastic. I woud urge everybody to get out there and circumnavigate the Isle fo Skye by sea kayak, you definitely won't regret it!!!